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- HOW TO INSPECT
DOWN JACKET
General details
1
- IMPORTANT
• Inspection is divided into 3 stages
or steps :
1. Panel inspection.
2. In line sewing inspection.
3. Finish garment inspection.
* During every stage of inspection
PPS with comments from QA,
PDC, QC file complete with all
details regarding material &
accessories, all approvals & stds.
for bulk production & PP Meeting
report.
2
- IMPORTANT
Always send first sewing out put to Asmara for wash test :
1. To test for “ DOWN LEAKAGE “ ( feathers coming out or no ).
2. To test for “ SMELL “ ( smell of the feathers ).
3. To test for “ Oil leakage” ( oil from the feathers )
4. To test for “ Water mark”( after washing )
* During the process
of drying in tumbler
use tennis balls.
3
- 1. PANEL INSPECTION
1. always keep the sealed PPS, qc file, PDC for reference when doing
inspections.
• 2. Check fabric :
• Body / out shell ( 100 % polyester atau Taslan ).
• Lining body ( N/210T PD soft ).
• Down bag ( PL 240 D/P both cire or Tyfex ).
• Brushed cotton sheeting for pocketing.
• Rib 2x2 for collar and cuffs.
• 3. Check quality of interlining and its use ( cx 3 or some other & position ).
• > Interlining for light color body ( white / yellow / orange / red ) s/b using
white color interlining to avoid Shading.
• > Position front plaket, welt pocket, collar tape, facing of hood, facing of
collar, inside facing of body, bottom hem, inside flap pocket.
• 4. Check N/P ( 40 / 60 / 80 ) gram and position.
• 5. Check cutting accuracy :
• > Body.
• > Lining.
• > Down bag
• > Cotton brush for pocketing.
• > Rib for collar & cuffs. 4
-
2. IN LINE INSPECTION :
• 1. Check Accessories :
• Thread : for body top
stitching / bobbin , over
lock, embro, lining,
numbering and color s/b
as per standard.
• Labeling : Main / size /
care label and other label
s/b as per standard.
• Embro & printing :
Artwork / color / size/ azo
free test and position s/b
as per standard.
• Zipper / snap button /
eyelet / azo free test , s/b
as per standard. All metal
accessories should be
nickel free.
• Piping / elastic string /
stopper plastic /Velcro 5
- Inline inspection
3. jacket is divided into 2
•
main parts. 1.) OUT
SHELL / BODY & 2.)
LINING.
• 4. Check OUT SHELL /
BODY ( hood/front &
back body / sleeve ), Check
LINING ( hood / front &
back body / sleeve ).
6
- Inline inspection
• 5. Check stitch construction of down
bag in all components of jacket
( Hood / Body / Lining ), should be as
per approved PPS and comments.
– Down bag could be stitched through n through
with out shell only, and all components will be
like this. ( Hood, front / back body, and
sleeve ).
– Down bag could be stitched through n through
shell & lining both, an all components will be
like this ( Hood, front / back body, and
sleeve ). 7
- Inline inspection
• all construction should be as per sample or standard.
• * SPI
for stitching down bag should be dense ( normally 11 or 12 stitches
per inch ).
• usually down bag is stitched trough n through out shell only and
using thread 60/3 ( SPI 10 ).
• thread 60/3 is used for all stitching unless specified otherwise by
the buyer ( top stitch / bobbin / overlock ).
8
- Inline inspection
7. There are 2 color of
duck down :
*GREY >
* WHITE >>
9
- Inline inspection
8. Check quality of duck down : ( 50/50,
70/30, 80/20, 90/10 ).
50/50 means : ( 50 % downs & 50 % quills ).
–
70/30 means : ( 70 % downs & 30 % quills ).
–
80/20 means : ( 80 % downs & 20 % quills ).
–
90/10 means : ( 90 % downs & 10 % quills ).
–
Tom Tailor generally use 50/50 , Grey duck down or
–
White duck down ).
10
10
- Inline inspection
9. Before putting the down/feathers in the
components or panels, the downs should be
dried properly in the sunlight so that optimum
fluffiness is obtained.
10. Special for light color body ( white / pink
/ yellow / orange ), s/b using white duck
down to avoid see through.
11
11
- Inline inspection
Check duck down
11.
weight in the filling
room ( should be as per
buyer requirement or
standard bulkiness from
buyer ).
12.Check detail per
component and per part
( for eg. Sleeve has 4
parts).
12
12
- Inline inspection
13. After filling duck down
properly for the components,
the down bag is closed so
that the downs don’t come
out.
14. After closing the down bag,
it is beaten lightly so that the
downs are spread evenly in
all the components and
parts – at the same time
checking whether the down
bag is closed properly and
secure enough or not. If
there are any open seams
or parts not closed properly , 13
13
it is given back for repair.
- Inline inspection
15. Components are then
sent to sewing for
assembeling.
16.Check for pleated down
bag, specially for body
part for light color
fabrics due to see
through.
14
14
- Inline inspection
Check Hood ( Lining ) :
18.
>. Check the shape of hood(s/b follow pattern).
>. Check snap button ( position / color / quality /
nikel free s/b as per standard and attachment
s/b properly / easy to open and close / safe &
secure ( apart from polywasher add a piece of self
fabric, where ever possible, to make it more secure ).
>. Check tacking ( s/b 2 pcs tacking and
properly position ).
>. Please avoid puckering.
15
15
- 17. Check Hood ( out shell ) :
Check the shape of hood ( s/b follow pattern ).
–
Check bulkiness ( s/b base on standard ).
–
Check eyelet plus polywasher ( position / color / quality / nikle
–
free, s/b as per standard and attachment s/b properly / save &
secure.
– Check tacking ( s/b 2 pcs tacking and properly position.
– Please avoid puckering.
16
16
- Inline inspection
19. Check Body ( Shell of front & back body /
sleeve ) :
Check for even distribution of downs in all parts.
–
Check join rib to out shell collar, rib should be slightly
–
stretched when joining to body ( be careful twisting &
puckering ).
Check join collar to body ( s/b follow notches, flat / relax and
–
balance left / right ).
17
17
- Inline inspection
– Check Front placket ( s/b flat / relax / straight ).
– Check attachment snap button on front placket
( position / color / quality / nickel free s/b as per
standard and attachment s/b properly / easy to open
and close / safe & secure ( apart from polywasher add
self fabric to make it more secure ).
– Check underside of front placket – there should be
additional single needle stitch on the edge of zipper to
avoid slider catching the fabric and getting stuck.
– Check armhole ( s/b nice shape ), no twisting /
puckering, follow notches of the pattern.
18
18
- Inline inspection
– Check Center front zipper, pocket zipper ( s/b flat/ relax
and move smoothly / easy to open and close ).
– Check quilting stitch ( at center front , at side seam s/b
match ) and no join stitch.
– Check quilting stitch at sleeve ( left & right s/b balance)
and no join stitch.
– Check hemming sleeve ( no twisting /no puckering /
width of hemming s/b even.
– Check embroidery ( thread / artwork / color / position ).
– Please avoid puckering / twisting on all parts.
19
19
- 20. Check Body ( Lining of front & back body / sleeve ) :
Check labeling ( main / size / care label / wash care label ) position
–
and type.
Check printing.
–
Check piping.
–
Check half moon.
–
Check hanger loop.
–
Check padding at shoulder area.
–
Check armhole ( s/b nice shape )
–
Check pocket lining.
–
Check join rib cuffs to sleeve hem ( rib stretch a bit ), Rib cuffs width
–
better make minus 0.5 upto 1 cm from size spec.
Please avoid puckering / twisting.
–
20
20
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