Unit 1: Designing through flat pattern technique

UNIT 1 DesigningThrough Flat Pattern Technique Structure 1.0 Introduction 1.1Pattern making tools 1.2 Terminology 1.3 Materialsused 1.4 Basictechniquesusedinflatpatterndesigning Learning Objectives Afterstudyingthisunit,thestudentwillbeableto • Knowthedifferencebetweenflatpatternandothermethodsofmaking patterns • Understandtheimportanceofflatpatterntechnique • Gainknowledgeaboutdifferent techniques • Applyto principleindesigning newgarments Unit Preview This unit deals with various methods ofpattern development using different flatpatterntechniquesalongwiththeimportanceofdart.Ithelpsthe studenttogainaninsightintotheequipmentandtoolsusedinflatpatterntechniques andmethodsofmanipulatingdartsusingdifferentstandard techniques. 176 FashionGarmentMaking 1.0 Introduction Patternmakingisonetheprimarystepindeveloping agarment.It isa highlyskilled process that has evolved over a period oftime. It had greater importancebeforeindustrialrevolutionwherepatternsweremadebytailors withthepersonalmeasurementsofthecustomersforcreationofcustomized garments. Afterindustrialrevolution,therewasaneed forstandardspatternsfor makinggarmentsonlargescalefortheready-to-wearindustry.So theneedfor standard measurementsand standard patternswashuge.Todaypatternsare beingmadenotonlybyhandbutbyusingcomputerusingspecializedsoftware. Patterncanbemadeinanyofthethreemajorways-eitherbydrafting,draping fabriconadressformor byflat patterndesigning. Flat patternmethod isthe techniqueofdevelopingpatternsforvaried stylesbymodifyingabasicpattern. 1.1 Pattern Making Tools Pattern making tools are veryimportant to make flaw less working patterns.Propertoolsminimizeerrorsinworking.Thesetoolshelp inpattern making,patternalterationandinpatterngrading(Figure1). Someimportant patternmakingtoolsarelistedbelow;thedetailofeachisincludedinthepractical module1. 1. Straight pins:Theseshould bemadesteeland offinequalityfor easypenetrationinto thefabric.Theyhelpinholdingthepatternpiecestogether andalso topinpaperpatternsonthefabricbeforemarkingandcutting.Pinsare also used indrapingpatterns. 2.Pinholder:It isadeviseforholding thepins 3.Scissorspaperandfabric:Areusedindrafting,cuttingandstitching patterns 4. Pencilandpen:Redand bluecolouredpencilsareusedto identify patterncuttinglines andstitchinglinesonpaperpatterns. 5.Ruler:Metalrulersareusedforstraightlines.Formeasuringcurves another ruler called curverulesareused. Theseareflexibleand canbebent whilemeasuring. 6.Pushpin:Theseareofregularsizeavailableindifferentcoloursfor useinpivotingandtransferringstylelinesfrommuslinto pattern. Paper - III Fashion Garment Designing 177 9 3 8 6 11 5 Fig 1.1 7. Notcher: Withthehelpofthistoolnotcheswhichare‘V’shaped cutting aredoneintheseamallowances.Theseformstheguidemarkswhen joiningpartsofthegarment. 8. Tracing wheel: Thistoolhasserrated edgewhichhelpsto move overpatternmarkingseasilywhiletheyarebeing transferredonto fabricwith thehelpofcarbonpaper. 9.Measuringtape:Thisisbasicallyusedto takebodymeasurements nadalso measurefabricandto mark measurementsonthepatterns. Fig 1.2 178 FashionGarmentMaking 10. Tailor’schalk: To draw linesor anymarkingsonfabrictailor’s chalkisused.It isavailableinvariouscoloursand shapes. 11.Hip Curveruler:Awoodenormetal24inchrulerthatisshaped into acurveatoneend. Thisismajorlyusedto curvehiplines,hemlines,elbows andlapels. 1.2 Terminology • Basicpatternset: A5-piecepatternset,consisting ofafront/back bodice,skirt,andalongsleeve.It isdevelopedwithoutdesignfeatures. • Working pattern : It is any pattern that is used as base for manipulationincreatingorgeneratingdesignpatterns. Back bodice Front bodice Sleeve Backskirt Front skirt Fig 1.3  Bust pointandApex:Adesignatedplaceonthebustandpattern. Apexisthehighest locationofamound (also referredto aspivotalpointinflat patternmaking).. Paper - III Fashion Garment Designing 179 •Dart : Awedgeshapecutout madeinapattern, whichisused asa meansofcontrollingthefitofagarment. Front Bust point Dart point Dartleg Dartintake Fig 1.4 •Dart point : Theend ofadart. •Dartlegs:Thetwo linesofthedartthatcoverageatapredetermined pointonthepattern. •Dart intake: Theamount ofexcess(or space)restricted between dart legs.Itspurposeisto takeup excesswhereitisnot needed soasto shape thefabricto thebodycurvesandcreateaperfect fitinthegarment. •Trueing :Theblendingandstraighteningofpencillines,crossmarks anddotmarksforestablishingcorrectseamlines •Blending : Aprocessofsmoothing, shaping and rounding angular linesalongaseamandmarksmadeonthepatternormuslin •Ease:Theevendistributionoffullnesswithoutforminggathers. •Gusset : Asquare, diamond ortriangularpieceoffabriccut onthe biasandinsertedinaslashattheunderarmcurveofasleeveto providefreedom ofmovement. ... - tailieumienphi.vn