The sewing machine classroom - Learning the ins and outs of your machine

the sewing machine classroom CHARLENE PHILLIPS contents About the Author ............................................2 Introduction ......................................................6 SECTION ONE: Taking Control .................................8 CHAPTER 1: Mastering the Materials .........10 CHAPTER 2: Demystifying Your Machine ...42 SECTION TWO: Increasing Your Sphere of Infl uence ..........................................60 CHAPTER 3: Project Preparation ..................62 CHAPTER 4: Hems and Edgings ....................72 CHAPTER 5: Buttonholes and Zippers.........84 CHAPTER 6: Embellishments .........................98 CHAPTER 7: Surface and Thread Embellishments .........................118 Appendix and Reference Charts ...................144 Glossary ..............................................................150 Resources ...........................................................155 Index ...................................................................156 introduction All of us start at the same place—the beginning. Over the years I have had my share of puckered seams, creeping fabric, tangled threads and tunneled stitching. Although some days I still find my trash can more full of trials-and-errors than my finished pile, I eventually know what is going wrong...once I stop to analyze and think about it! Experimenting with fabrics, needles, threads and stabilizers, and learning what my sewing machine can do for me has resulted in more enjoyable sewing time and less frustration. Whether piecing quilts or sewing up a new wardrobe, I would rather spend my time sewing than grabbing the seam ripper! Every sewer—new and experienced— encounters stitch problems from time to time, and knowing what to troubleshoot first can be extremely helpful. Diagnosing and remedying common problems ends frustration, keeps your creative juices flowing and gives you the confidence to try new techniques. You’ll be able to sew up a beautiful wardrobe like a profes-sional when you know the correct needle to use and how to use the gorgeous threads that are available. To sew something you are proud of, it must be durable, have straight, even stitches, and look just as good after several washings as when it was fi rst finished. For thousands of years, sewing was done by hand. With the inven-tion of the sewing machine came timesaving techniques, but also the beginning of tangled threads and broken needles. It’s time for you to take control! Your machine may be capable of doing so much more than you realize. Learn all those timesaving features—they’re right at your fin-gertips! Once you master your machine, there will be more time to enjoy trying new sewing techniques. There are many bits of sewing infor-mation in books, magazines and on the Internet. Looking through my own sewing journal, I have pulled out what was beneficial to me over the years to share with you. Hopefully, you will find a sewing nugget or two of information that you can add to your own journal. Although it is tempting to learn a new technique while in the process of sewing up a new project, it is always better to pause and take time to learn and perfect that same technique through simple practice. Learn it, and then continue to add to your repertoire by changing fabrics, needles, threads or sewing feet. Make the technique yours, and then use it on your next sewing project for perfect results. It’s time to reach into your fabric stash, grab some needles and thread and begin sewing! 6 BUTTON AND CARPET RIBBON FLOSS METALLIC (MEDIUM WEIGHT) LINGERIE JEANS SILVER METALLIC METALLIC (VISCOSE AND METALLIS) PEARL CROWN RAYON SILK RIBBON 15 NEEDLE BASICS There are three things to consider when choosing a needle: • Needle system • Needle point or type • Needle size Remember that thread selection is very important, but just as important is matching the thread type and weight with the correct needle. The sewing machine needle is the least expensive sewing notion, so change it often! An improper needle forces the thread through the fabric, instead of allowing it to flow smoothly through the needle hole and into the fabric. The needle eye must be large enough for thread to pass through easily to minimize friction. If the needle is hard to thread, the eye may be too small for the thread; try a larger size. A common mistake is using a needle that is too small. A size 70 works best for delicate fabrics like chiffon, but if using a lighter thread such as lingerie thread, use a smaller size needle such as 60 or 65. Always start with the smaller needle (which makes a smaller hole in the fabric) and move to the next size if skipped stitching occurs. As a general rule, the needle eye should be about 40 percent larger than the thread diameter. For general sewing, try using needle size 75/11 or 80/12 for 40 weight thread, and 90/14 or 100/16 for 30 weight thread. Thread should move smoothly down the groove on the front of the needle. Thin thread in a thick needle gives the thread too much “play,” leading to skipped stitches and thread damage (fraying). Thick thread in a fine needle forces the thread to rub against the edges of the groove, leading to thread jams and breaks. sewing 101 The long set of numbers on a needle packet is called the needle system. The most common needle system for household sewing machines is system 130/705 H. These needles are the same as 15x1 H needles (Japanese) and 2020 (Singer). The number 130 refers to the length of the shank and 705 means the backside is flat. Almost all household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank, but refer to your sewing machine owner’s manual for specifi c instructions on the needle system required for your machine. SIZES AND TYPES OF NEEDLES Sewing machine needles range in size from 60/8 to 120/19. These numbers refer to the size of the needle shaft (the diameter of the needle at the needle eye). The first number is European/metric and the second is the U.S. sizing system. Common sizes and appropriate fabrics: • For most natural and synthetic fabrics: 60/8 to 100/16 • For jersey and stretch: 70/10 to 90/14 • For heavyweight and topstitching: 80/12 to 100/16 • For hemstitch (wing): 100/16 to 120/19 sewing 101 Change your needle after every six or eight hours of sewing. Syn-thetic fabrics tend to dull needles quickly. Remember, the average project can contain as many as 50,000 stitches or more! 21 ... - tailieumienphi.vn