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- NANCY Z I E M A N’S
Sewing Ato Z
YOUR SOURCE for SEWING and QUILTING
TIPS and TECHNIQUES
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FEATURING 100+ TECHNIQUES
- Seam Finishes
Most woven fabrics ravel unless the edges are finished. After stitching a seam, add a
S seam finish to each seam edge to prevent fraying. Most seam finishes are done on a single
thickness of fabric to avoid bulk and make the seam flatter and neater. Here are several
ways to finish seams.
Zigzag Each Seam Edge Serge Each Seam Edge
• Use a medium-width zigzag and a • Use a 3-thread or 4-thread serged NOTE from NANCY
medium to short stitch length. overlock stitch (pages 108–109).
• Stitch the zig in the fabric and the zag Edgestitching close to the
close to or off the cut edge. seam edge is my least
• Zigzagging works best on medium- favorite option for seam
to heavy-weight fabrics. If zigzagging finishing. However, this
draws in the seam edge and makes method may be your only
it pucker, you may want to choose choice if you don’t own a
another seam finish.
serger and your machine
has problems stitching
WRONG SIdE
a zigzag so close to the
fabric edge.
Edgestitch Close
to Each Seam Edge
WRONG SIdE • Set the machine to straight stitch.
• Guide the right edge of the presser
foot along the cut edge of the fabric.
• You may want to adjust the needle
position so it’s closer to the fabric
edge. (Stitching is about ⅛"–¼"
NOTE from NANCY
[3mm–6mm] from the cut edge.)
If fabric edges always seem
to curl and pucker when
you zigzag, try using an
overcast guide foot. It has
a center bar in the needle
opening that keeps the
fabric flat and prevents
tunneling while the zigzag
goes over the fabric edge. WRONG SIdE
OvERCAST GUIdE FOOT
Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores,
or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
- Seams: FRENCH
For very sheer fabrics or fabrics that ravel easily, French seams enclose the seam
allowances, giving a neat finish that practically eliminates ravelling. French seams are S
a perfect choice for joining fabrics such as batiste, chiffon and voile. With two rows
of straight stitching and a little pressing, you can encase the raw edges of the fabric
attractively and neatly.
1 Place wrong sides together with the
raw edges aligned. Straight stitch ⅜" 3 Press the joined edges flat and then
press the seam open.
(10mm) from the cut edges.
• This makes it easier to fold the seam 1
⁄4" (6MM)
2 Trim the seam allowance to just slightly
less than ¼" (6mm) using a rotary cut-
allowance along the first stitching line
in preparation for the second row of
machine stitching.
ter and cutting mat.
4 Refold the seam allowance with the
right sides of the fabric together, WRONG SIdE
positioning the first stitching line
at the fold. To complete the French
seam, stitch ¼" (6mm) from the fold,
encasing the cut edges.
RIGHT SIdE
3
⁄ 8" (10MM)
NOTE from NANCY
To save time, I often reverse the width
of the seam allowances, stitching the ¼"
(6mm) seam first, then the ⅜" (10mm)
seam. This method produces a slightly
wider seam, but it eliminates the trim-
ming step. For extremely sheer fabric,
the narrower width is best.
Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores,
or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
- Seams: TRAdITIONAL
For most projects on medium-weight woven fabric, traditional seams work well for
S joining the fabric edges.
1 Set the sewing machine to stitch 10–12 stitches per inch
(per 2.5cm). 3 Pin the edges together, placing the pins at right angles to the
edge of the fabric.
2 Place the right sides of two pieces of fabric together,
matching the seam edges, the top and bottom of the 4•
Stitch the seam.
Check the pattern’s seam allowance. Most patterns allow ⅝"
pieces, and the notches.
(16mm) but some allow only ¼" (6mm). It is important to
stitch exactly on the seamline.
MATCH
SEAM EdGES
ANd NOTCHES
CHECk SEAM
ALLOWANCE
WRONG SIdE
• Make sure the upper and bobbin threads are at the back of
the machine, under the presser foot.
• Place the end of the seam under the presser foot. Lower the
presser foot.
RIGHT SIdE
• Lower the needle into the fabric by turning the balance wheel.
PULL THREAdS
TO bACk OF
PRESSER FOOT
Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores,
or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
- • Lock the stitches at the beginning and end of each seam to • Stitch to the seam end and backstitch.
prevent them from coming out: Sew two or three stitches,
then adjust the machine to stitch in reverse and sew two or
• Turn the balance wheel until the take-up lever is at its
highest point.
three stitches—this is backstitching.
• Adjust the machine to stitch forward again and continue RAISE LEvER TO
stitching. Guide the fabric so the seam is a uniform width. HIGHEST POINT
bACkSTITCH
AT bEGINNING
ANd ENd OF SEAM
• Raise the presser bar lifter and pull the fabric to the back of
the machine under the presser foot.
• Cut the threads close to the fabric. Leave 2"–3" (5cm–8cm) of
thread coming from the machine needle.
• Remove each pin as you come to it. • Trim the thread ends at the beginning of the seam close to
the fabric.
NOTE from NANCY
Another way to lock stitch is to stitch
REMOvE PINS in place several times. Set the stitch
jUST bEFORE
SEWING OvER THEM length lever at 0 and make two to three
stitches. Then return the stitch length to
10–12 stitches per inch (per 2.5cm) and
continue stitching. Repeat this at the end
of the seam.
STITCH IN PLACE
WRONG SIdE
Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores,
or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
- S EWING
The answers
to all your sewing questions!
Whether you’re a novice sewer or a skilled seamstress, who better to
go to for sewing answers and advice than expert Nancy Zieman? Set
aside your sewing fears and let Nancy guide you step-by-step through
100+ basic to advanced sewing methods and techniques.
• Arranged in alphabetical order for fast and easy reference, this handy
guide will make its permanent home by your sewing machine or on your
workspace.
• With over 100 topics ranging from Appliqué to Zippers, Nancy will help
you achieve beautiful results with every project.
• Helpful Notes from Nancy throughout the book provide insights and tips
for a variety of sewing techniques and skills.
• Spiral binding allows the book to lay flat for hands-free reference while
you sew, cut or press.
• Clear, concise instructions and detailed illustrations make even the most
advanced techniques easy to understand and successfully execute.
A wealth of information and instruction from your favorite sewing
expert is at your fingertips in this go-to guide! Stitch with ease and
assurance with Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z by your side!
Nancy Zieman is executive producer and host of
Public TV’s Sewing With Nancy and the founder
of Nancy’s Notions, a source for sewing and quilt-
ing products. As one of the sewing industry’s
most trusted voices, she has been honored and
Exclusive celebrated by organizations from the National 4-H
deal Club to the American Sewing Guild. Visit Nancy at
US $29.99
for SewMamaSew readers! www.nancyzieman.com. Y0005 (CAN $33.99)
Get 40% off Sewing A-Z ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1429-5
ISBN-10: 1-4402-1429-8
until 9/30. Shop at 52999
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EAN
and use promo code SEWINGAZ
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