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‘I love to take things that are everyday and comforting and
make them into the most luxurious things in the world.’
1 Fur jacket by Julien Macdonald, A/W08.
Marc Jacobs
This chapter deals specifically with the range of techniques used for specialist fabrics and materials. Finishes and treatments that are added to a fabric at any stage of its process can make the material difficult to cut, sew or finish. These include felted wools, lace, sequinned and beaded fabrics, knits and fabrics that have a nap, such as velvet. A material such as fur or leather, whether it is real or synthetic, also requires specialist knowledge in its construction.
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Surface-specific techniques
Felted fabrics
1 An abutted seam.
2 A top-stitched hem finish.
3 A top-stitched hem with 1cm turned under.
4 A flat fell seam.
5 Calvin Klein dress made of felted wool, A/W08. Catwalking.com.
Felted woven fabrics are shrunk and compressed with heat, moisture and friction to produce a dense appearance. Some of the better-known felted fabrics are loden, melton or fleece. The edges of a felted fabric do not fray so seams can be left unfinished. It is most common to use a plain stitched seam with topstitching or a welt seam for light- to medium-weight felted fabric. But there are many
more techniques to choose from, such as:
Abutted seam
Abutted seams (or channel seams) can be used as decorative seams, by applying a ribbon or any contrast fabric as an under layer.
Topstitched hem
The best way to finish a felted fabric garment is with a topstitched hem, but you could also use a blanket stitch, which creates a certain look and finishes off the edge.
· Prepare a 3cm strip as an
under layer and mark the · centre of the strip. You can
use contrasting or matching · fabric.
· Place the raw edge of both · sides of the garment pieces on
to the centre line of the strip. The strip is lying on the wrong side of the fabric pieces with the right side up.
· Now top-stitch each side
of the garment pieces on to the strip.
Add allowance for a hem.
Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side of the garment.
Top-stitch the hem down. This can be done at any width, stitch length and row position depending on the design choice. Use any type of thread (colour or thickness)
or use decorative stitching.
· If required, you can also leave a gap to show more of the decorative strip.
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Non-woven flat fell seam
A variation of the flat fell seam is strong enough for non-woven felted fabrics.
· Allow 1.5cm for the seam allowance.
· Put the wrong sides together and sew a straight line.
· Press the seam flat to one side.
· From the inner layer trim off 2–3mm.
· Top-stitch the top layer down along the edge.
· To strengthen the seams use a fusible web before top-stitching.
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Surface-specific techniques
Lace
1 Christian Lacroix, haute couture, S/S08. Catwalking.com.
2 Technical drawing showing how to cut lace fabric and create an appliqué seam.
Lace is a decorative fabric with an open structure. It is made by hand or machine using knitting, braiding, looping and knotting techniques. Lace is used for trimming on lingerie, collars and cuffs or as appliqué, traditionally on bridal or evening wear. It can be fine- to heavyweight, in different fibres such as linen, wool, cotton, polyester or nylon and has more stretch in the width than in the length. Lace is fragile and needs to be handled with care. It is also expensive. You will require more fabric when cutting out because most lace fabrics have a horizontal or vertical pattern that should be matched up, both
for garment construction and for trimmings.
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Appliqué seams
Appliqué seams are used on lace garments to ensure that none of the side or centre back seams are visible.
· Cut the overlapping piece (front piece) following the pattern and add some allowance (this can be cut off later).
Appliquéd lace edging and set-in lace pieces
When integrating lace pieces into a garment or finishing, such as on lace-trimmed
· Cut the pattern as usual.
· · Place the pattern right-side
up on to the lace. Lay out the pieces, leaving space between them, aligning the pattern · design of the fabric from front
side seam to back side seam.
· Be careful with the centre front
and centre back when placing · the pieces for a central
pattern.
· First thread mark the original
side seams of the pattern on · to the lace fabric.
· Then thread mark the overlapping pattern on
to the front panel. ·
Then cut the back piece (this is the corresponding under layer) with a 1cm allowance.
Put the overlapping layer on top (right-side up) and pin the thread-marked front and back side seam lines together.
Baste the new side seam and check the fit for small alterations, before sewing the pieces permanently together.
Appliqué around the lace pattern with a small zigzag stitch, either by hand or with the sewing machine.
Trim all excess allowances off each layer and press the seams carefully at a low temperature.
necklines or hemlines, great care has to be applied to make the fabric and lace look like a single piece. Lace application should not look like an afterthought, but as though it is part of the fabric.
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