Ebook Basics fashion design 03 - Construction: Part 1

BASICS FASHION DESIGN Anette Fischer 03 CONSTRUCTION An AVA Book Published by AVA Publishing SA Rue des Fontenailles 16 Case Postale 1000 Lausanne 6 Switzerland Tel: +41 786 005 109 Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America) 181a High Holborn London WC1V 7QX United Kingdom Tel: +44 20 7845 5000 Fax: +44 20 7845 5055 Email: sales@thameshudson.co.uk www.thamesandhudson.com Distributed in the USA & Canada by: Ingram Publisher Services Inc. 1 Ingram Blvd. La Vergne, TN 37086 USA Tel: +1 866 400 5351 Fax: +1 800 838 1149 Email: customer.service@ingrampublisherservices.com English Language Support Office AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd. Tel: +44 1903 204 455 Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch Copyright © AVA Publishing SA 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of the copyright holder. ISBN 978-2-940373-75-8 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Design by Sifer Design Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore Tel: +65 6334 8173 Fax: +65 6259 9830 Email: production@avabooks.com.sg All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to incorporate amendments in future editions. 2 / 3 1 Alexander McQueen, S/S09. Catwalking.com. Contents Introduction 6 How to get the most out of this book 8 Getting started 10 Pattern cutting tools and equipment 12 Silhouettes 14 Sizing and grading 16 Blocks and patterns 20 Pattern cutting 24 How to read a design drawing 26 Dart manipulation 30 Slash and spread 32 Sleeves 34 Collars 44 Pockets 54 Bias cut 56 Fitting the toile 58 Laying a pattern on to fabric 64 Garment construction 70 Tools for the technique 72 Seams 78 Seam finishes 82 Hand sewing techniques 84 Surface-specific techniques 90 Felted fabrics 92 Lace 94 Leather 96 Fur 98 Knits and stretch-woven fabrics 100 Sequinned and beaded fabrics 102 Velvet 104 Transparent fabrics 106 ... - tailieumienphi.vn